
Meet our Authors: Edda Schlager
The German journalist was one of the few Westerners to permanently report from Central Asia. Her architectural guide to the city of Almaty is a kind of farewell after 18 years in a region whose importance, she says, is still not understood.
Text: Björn Rosen
Photo: Edda Schlager in front of a Soviet-era mosaic in Almaty. The German journalist reported from Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan. Two research trips also took her to Afghanistan. © Amina Shyryntai
An incredible amount has changed in Kazakhstan since 2005 when Edda Schlager first visited Almaty, the former capital and still the country’s largest city. ‘First and foremost, digitalisation,’ she says. ‘In the beginning I still had to use a modem; now there’s reliable internet access via telephone at ridiculously low prices, and dealing with the authorities can be done efficiently online, much faster than I’m used to in Germany.’ Then the journalist immediately qualifies: ‘Of course, the network is also switched off quickly during anti-government protests.’
Edda Schlager has reported from Central Asia for newspapers and radio stations for almost 20 years, including the Swiss SRF, Radio Free Europe, and Al Jazeera. This makes her one of only a handful of Western journalists who have worked permanently in the region, which spans two time zones and consists of five countries with a total of 65 million inhabitants.
Schlager studied geography in Berlin, but always had her sights set on becoming a journalist. Having grown up in the former communist East Germany, she had learned some Russian at school and therefore dared to take an internship at Almaty’s Deutsche Allgemeine Zeitung, the mouthpiece of the German minority, which had been forcibly deported to Central Asia under Stalin. Russian is still the lingua franca in the region, even if the language’s importance has been even more rapidly declining since the war in Ukraine. Schlager was so fascinated that she stayed on after her six months at the newspaper. She describes the region as a ‘hinge between Orient and Occident’, a place where influences and interests from Europe, Russia, the Gulf States, South Asia, and China come together. However, there is still hardly any awareness of this in the West, she says. During the attempted overthrow of the government in 2022, Schlager was a highly sought-after correspondent for a fortnight. After that, interest died down again immediately. This experience contributed to her decision to return to Berlin, where she now works for the federal marketing agency ‘Germany Trade and Invest’.
In her first architectural guide, published in 2017, she presented the Tajik capital of Dushanbe. ‘Unfortunately, many beautiful old buildings in the city have been demolished since then.’ The guide to Almaty, which is now being published, has a different significance for her. The Kazakh city was always her base for travelling and conducting research. And so the book, which also contains many interviews, has become quite personal. ‘Almaty is beautifully situated at the foot of the mountains and offers a fascinating mix with its mosques, Soviet buildings, and brand-new skyscrapers,’ she says. ‘But the fact that I felt so at home there was also due to the recognition I earned as a reporter for my long-term commitment.’
