
A Short Stopover in Kyoto
Are you planning a visit to Expo 2025 in Osaka? Then you should definitely make a detour to Kyoto. As a young architect, Botond Bognar, author of our Architectural Guide Japan (available now in an updated version), learned Japanese in the ancient capital in the 1970s. Now he returns every year to enjoy pan-fried tofu and views from the Moon Crossing Bridge.
Text: Botond Bognar
Photo: Fushimi Inari-taisha. The shrine sits at the base of a mountain, also named Inari. © Platongkoh | Dreamstime
Kyoto is a cosmopolitan city with outstanding works of contemporary architecture. But the city stands out first and foremost as a cradle of Japanese culture, with an exceptional mix of Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines, and traditional urban districts embedded in nature. Kyoto is a human-scale city, best discovered by walking. I visited the city for the first time as a young architect in early 1973, when I settled in a suburb of Kyoto to study Japanese before starting a two-year research fellowship at the Tokyo Institute of Technology. I still visit Japan two or three times a year and always spend time in this favourite city of mine.
Eat. Pontocho, close to the city centre, is a narrow alley, 2 metres wide and 500 metres long. It runs parallel to the Kamo river and is lined on both sides by charming old buildings, which house small, traditional restaurants, pubs, and bars. The wooden buildings along the east side of the lane look onto the river below, and large terraces are set up high over the riverbank from late spring to early autumn. Here, you can enjoy the taste of authentic Kyoto cuisine, a snack, or a refreshing drink, while taking in the panoramic views of the river and east side of Kyoto. I have fond memories of sitting on those terraces, often enjoying pan-fried tofu, in the late afternoons. Walk a few metres from the northern end of Pontocho, and you arrive at TIME’S (Sanjo Dori), a small, commercial building designed by Tadao Ando. It features an inviting restaurant-cum-café, hugging the Takase stream. Its terrace often gave me the perfect respite after a busy day.
Pray. Kyoto is a treasure trove of Japan’s historic architecture. I would single out the Shisen-do Villa (27 Ichijoji Kadoguchi-cho), which was once the residence of the poet Ishikawa Jozan (1583–1672). It is now used as a Soto Zen temple and is one of the most impressive examples of seventeenth-century villas in Kyoto. Visitors should also visit the Kiyomizu-dera (294 Kiyomizu), a Buddhist temple and UNESCO World Heritage Site, situated on the slopes of the Higashiyama mountain range in the east of the city. The temple, dating back to the eighth century, sits on a massive wooden sub-structure, with a large terrace offering breath-taking views of the city.
Love. Arashiyama, a district on the western outskirts of the city, is particularly rich in nature. Its Bamboo Forest is a popular retreat among tourists and locals alike, and the Togetsukyo Bridge offers a stunning view of cherry blossoms in the spring. Also located in the district is the new Fukada Art Museum (3–16 Susukino Baba-cho), whose café overlooks a beautiful Japanese garden, with the landscape and river behind it. To enjoy Kyoto at its best, you should plan a visit for either spring or autumn. This is when the nature in and around Kyoto is most intoxicating, with the cherry blossoms in full bloom or the leaves of the Japanese maple trees turning into myriad shades of flaming reds and oranges.
BOTOND BOGNAR is the author of our Architectural Guide Japan (available now in an updated version). He is a licensed architect and internationally respected scholar of Japanese architecture and urbanism with over 20 published books. He is currently Professor and Edgar A. Tafel Endowed Chair in Architecture at the University of Illinois Urbana Champaign. He lived in Japan for many years in the 1970s and still frequently visits the country.